Dean’s Studio D’Artisan – D1549 – ‘The Salesman Jeans’ – Tapering

Sooo Studio D’Artisan decide to make a jean out of 5 different fabrics and call it the ‘Salesman Jean’. Yep. My theory behind it is that it will attract attention via it’s point of difference and rather than a normal jean showing how one pair of jeans fade and wear in, these will manage to show you, your real life friends and your electronic buddies how 5 jeans fade on the one garment! Hence, The Salesman Jeans. Haha, great concept by Studio D’Businessman!

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This absolutely magnificent piece of  art belongs to a Sydney denim head slash many other things, Dean. These have been brought to me to be tapered. Not a ‘from the knee, down’ sort of taper; but a ‘from one hem to the other’ kind of taper, so I guess, maybe more of a reconstruction. I have begun to provide my tapering service again recently considering the stories I have been hearing about local tailors/alteration shops chopping off selvedge and what not. But please, not too many at once!

The aim is to get it to fit similar to a pair of Momotaro 0705sp with a slightly longer crotch.

THE FABRICS

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Although this jean is based off the straight SD-103 fit, it has been constructed from the fabric and details of 5 different jeans. The SD-001, SD-101, SD601-99, SD-DO1, and the SD601-00. This means that there is a range of 14oz and 15oz weights, right hand and left hand twills, and also synthetic and natural indigo. The fabrics alone portray a strong image of the brand, what they have to offer, and what they are capable of accomplishing. The finished result of this jean after heavy amounts of wear will be something of noteworthy value. I have the feeling it will silence many long serving denim heads as they trace the fade of one crease along one panel to another, the wear comparisons at the seams, and fades at each crossroad of fabric.

THE DETAILS PT 1

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Lined yokes, a never ending array of various thread weights and colours, the selvedge cinch-back, the selvedge button fly, hidden rivets, various and multiple D’artisan tabs, twills travelling all directions especially once panels have been rotated from the grain-line. This jean has a lot going on.

THE DETAILS PT 2

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The cinch-back buckle has been by far one of the most interesting pieces of hardware I have seen in a while. It’s not just the craftsmanship evident upon viewing this buckle that got me, it was the smooth gliding motion of turning the pronged piece that slapped me in the face. If you treasure quality hardware, and if you ever come across this buckle in your life, whether it be a stranger wearing these down the street, or in a shop; please do yourself a favour and lift their shirt up, and play with their cinch-back buckle!

THE SOAK

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Any excuse for me to use my underwater camera right! Every time I soak jeans, the bubbles always give me the feeling that jeans are as much living as you and I. They’re like some underwater creature waiting to surprise you; they either come out a small fish laughing because they shrank more than you expected, or a giant loch-ness monster that barely shrank and is now looking at you thinking… “suck, now you have to deal with oversized me, you should have done your research and gone down a size idiot!” Sometimes though, you catch the right one… and you enjoy a long hearty meal.

I soaked the jeans in the hottest temperature the tap was capable of, which is usually never really that hot. I added some rock salt because it feels like a ritual must, and some Himalayan Natural Pink Salt because I’ve seen many of Dean’s artworks; and he seems to have a fixation with the colour…… natural pink! Enough said, hahaha.

THE POST SOAK

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I like to dry jeans out in the sun while they are fresh from the soak to start drying the heavily layered sections, and later place them in the shade with access to plenty of air flow to prevent them from smelling damp once they do dry. They did shrink quite a bit and there was some heavy skewing in the leg… ahh, smells like some old school detailing!

THE ALTERING

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When I received the jeans, they had been altered in length from what I could tell, probably at time of purchase. The inseam measured at 31.5″. The length shrank about 1.5″ after the soak. So remember with an unsanforized fabric, when hemming, allow for shrinkage. In order to get these jeans to the desired fit, the hems are unravelled, the inseam topstitch was removed and a new inseam measurement is sewn down. I then run it through with a 4 thread safety stitch along the inseam and perform a topstitch on a feed-off-the-arm machine from one hem to the other. The hems are re-chainstitched and the crotch has a bartack applied to the crotch point. Sounds quick and easy, but is a lot more time consuming in real life. Measurements must be precise on both legs, if not, you will have an uneven asymmetric fit. You also need to take into account that when unsanforized fabrics are soaked/shrunk, they may skew in the legs causing more attention required to inseam tapering.

The benefit with tapering from one end to the other is that the construction is all ‘seamless’. Everything looks basically fresh from the production line. When tapering from the knee down, the seam must be continued creating a ‘break’ in the construction. This is where the original stitch work meets the altered work. Some may see an overlap in the stitches from the outside. However, that is another aesthetic in itself to adding to the story of your jean. For some though, they still prefer clean details. All in all, the jeans came out smashing!

THE CONCLUSION

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All there is to do now is smash them, stretch them, fade them, crock them and watch shit get intense! I will be looking forward to following the progression of these jeans, so they may further carry and market the Studio D’Businessman brand into their bright looking future!

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